Being a mature woman with hooded eyes, it has always been difficult to create a flattering eyeshadow look that works for me. But thanks to Imogen Lamport of the Insideoutstyleblog, I have found my way and you may learn from her technique too. This look is primarily a daytime look which works for night too unless you want something more dramatic. I need to keep my eyes as open as possible but with hooded eyes, I emphasize my other facial features with good contouring and bright lips.
What Colors To Choose
The first thing you want to think about when choosing makeup colors – from eyeshadow to blush, bronzer to lipstick, is will they flatter your complexion.
You will find that when a color doesn’t suit you, the colour of the makeup is noticeable, whilst when it does flatter your coloring, you are noticeable and you just look like a more glamorous version of you, rather than someone wearing lots of makeup.
If you have had a colour analysis this makes it really easy to choose makeup colours, as you can just be guided by your color swatch. As you can see in the photo below, in the top picture, the swatch below each of the palette relates to the colours in the swatch, whether it’s the blush colors or eyeshadow colors.
Versus where I’ve swapped the swatches around, when you look at the bottom photo (in the picture above) you can see that the cool swatch colours don’t relate to the warm palette of makeup, nor do the cool makeup colours relate to the warm swatch below them.
Warm colors: Cool Colors:
Camels Cool Mushroom Brown
Choosing Eyeshadow Colors
Eye shadow should enhance the eye colour, rather than compete with it. Your eye intensifying colours are those that are either complimentary, split complimentary colours (opposite or almost opposite on the colour wheel) or within the opposite side of a triad.
Eye Color Warm Cool
Blue eyes Bronze, Gold, Brown Pink, Cool Brown, Grey, Navy
Brown eyes Olive green, gold, bronze Blue, navy, Silver, Pink, Forest Green, Teal
Green eyes Warm Mauve, bronze, camel Lilac, pink, Cool Brown, Deep Forest Green
Hazel eyes Warm Mauve, bronze, camel
Applying the Eyeshadow
Imogen shares her eyeshadow application technique with photos of each stage so you can get a close-up view of what she actually does. This is followed by a short video demonstrating the technique,
6 Step Easy Eyeshadow Application
See images above for step by step reference.
Before you start, consider whether you want to use an eyeshadow with sheen, or one that is matte. Here are some tips for making that decision.
Step 1: Eyeshadow Base
This is essential for me, it’s an eyelid primer that stops my eyeshadow disappearing into the crease within minutes of me applying shadow. It creates a slightly tacky surface that sticks the eyeshadow on so it stays all day and right into the night.
Step 2: Highlight Color
This is the all over the eyelid colour that I take up to my brows. For me, I use a light pink as it makes my blue eyes bluer (get my tips on which colour eyeshadows to choose for your eyes here).
Step 3: Contour Color
This is a medium cool pinkish brown that I use (I don’t like to go too dark for daytime), which I apply in a C shape to the outer edges of my eyelids. Because my eyes are deeper set and my skin above my moveable lids is starting to droop with age, I take it across the crease line and above the crease line to help ‘push back’ the overhang (remember, darker colours recede, light colours advance, so when applying shadow think about what you want to push backwards versus what you want to bring forward and make more prominent). If you have a prominent eye, you’d do your darker colour over the mobile lid (where your eye is) and not above the crease.
Step 4: Eyeshadow Liner
I tend to prefer using an eyeshadow as an eyeliner as it’s softer and easier to apply as skin becomes more moveable with age. I wear either a navy, charcoal or deep cool brown as my eyeliner colour. Black is too harsh now that I’m blonde and not a deep brunette.
Step 5: Highlight Inner Corners
To make my eyes pop, I like to highlight the inner corners of my eyes with a light shadow, this is because the inner corners is where we normally get those dark shadows that make us look more tired. Depending on what I’m wearing, I use either a silver or a light teal (here I’m using the light teal) shadow.
Step 6: Mascara
Last, but never least is mascara – which is my ‘desert island essential’ beauty product as I’ve always had very light eyelashes and it makes the biggest difference to how noticeable my eyes are.
This total process takes me no more than 2 minutes (tops)
Once you’ve finished your eye makeup, don’t forget your eyebrows.
Eyebrows really do provide a frame for your eyes. As we age, our eyebrows get shorter and lighten. If you’ve plucked your eyebrows lots, they may also stop growing back and look sparse.
You want your eyebrows to look clean, so plucking out those stray hairs that grow too low helps to give your eyes a lifted look, then filling in anything that is more sparse also helps to really make your eyebrows a frame for your eyes.